For just about 150 years, Bangkok's Grand Palace was not only the home of the King and his court, but also the entire administrative seat of government. Within the crenelated walls were the country's war ministry, state departments, and even the mint. Thai Kings stopped living in the palace full time around the turn of the twentieth century, but the complex remains the seat of power and spiritual heart of the Thai kingdom. Map of the Grand Palace The palace complex, like the rest of Ratanakosin Island , is laid out following the general outline of Ayutthaya palaces. The Outer Court , near where you enter the complex today, housed the government departments in which the king was directly involved, such as civil administration, including the army, and the treasury. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha takes up one corner of the complex next to the outer court. In the middle is the Central Court , where the residence of the king and the halls for conducting state business were located. You are allowed to look at the fronts of the buildings in the central court, but only two of the throne halls are open to the public, and only on weekdays. Behind the central court was the inner court. This was where the king's royal consorts and daughters lived. The inner court was like a small city entirely populated by women and boys under the age of puberty. Even though no royalty currently reside in the inner court, it is still completely closed off to the public. gp In 1767 the Thai capital of Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese. About 60 kilometres north of modern Bangkok, it had been the capital of Thailand for 417 years. Depending on which historical source you believe, the Burmese laid siege to Ayutthaya for between 15 months and four years. When the city fell, the remaining members of the Ban Plu Luang dynasty -- the last of five Thai dynasties to rule from Ayutthaya -- were evidently all slain or carried away as prisoners. Thailand could conceivably have come to an end in that year. Instead, a Thai general named Phraya Taksin assumed control of the government. King Taksin moved the Thai capital down the Chao Phraya River to Thonburi, on the river's west bank opposite Bangkok. Taksin defeated the Burmese and drove them back out of Thailand. He also revitalized the Thai economy through foreign trade. He ruled Thailand until 1782. Exactly how his rule came to an end is evidently the subject of some debate. Stories range from the discrete to the downright gory. On October 27, 1981, the Thai cabinet passed a resolution to honor him as "King Taksin the Great." In any event, a Thai nobel named Thong Duang had been elevated in rank over the course of King Taksin's reign. In 1782 he was commander of the Thai Army. And with the removal of Taksin, Thong Duang ascended the throne of Thailand and became Rama I, the founder of the Chakri Dynasty which still sits on Thailand's throne. One of Rama I's first acts as king was to move the capital from Thonburi to Bangkok, to the site of the current Grand Palace. This palace has an area of 218,400 sq. metres and is surrounded by walls built in 1782. The length of the four walls is 1,900 metres. Within these walls are situated government offices and the Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha besides the royal residences. When Siam restored law and order after the fall of Ayutthaya the monarch lived in Thonburi on the west side of the river. Rama I, on ascending the throne, moved the centre of administration to this side of the Chao Phraya; and, after erecting public monuments such as fortifications and monasteries, built a palace to serve not only as his residence but also his offices--the various ministries, only one of which remains in the palace walls. This palace came to be known as the Grand Palace, in which the earliest edifices contemporary with the foundation of Bangkok were the two groups of residences named the Dusit Maha Prasat and the Phra Maha Monthian. To further link the two cities, some of the original materials from Ayutthaya were incorporated into the new capital buildings. As each new King ascended the throne, renovations continued throughout the palace. Each King's contribution is a statement of his rule and of the times in which he ruled. Since its original construction, the capital has only become more important as the center for the government as well as religion. The Grand Palace, otherwise known as Wat Pho seen from the outside is beautiful with spires rising up from behind thick, white walls. Once inside the walls, nothing can prepare a person for the amazing beauty and intricacy of the buildings and statues. It is a place where people can learn more about and respect the King and the Buddha. The Grand Palace adjoins Wat Phra Kaew in a common compound, and is where you will end up after exiting Wat Phra Kaew. Despite the proximity of the two, there's a distinct contrast in style between the very Thai Wat Phra Kaew and the more European inspired designs of the Grand Palace (the roof being the exception). The Grand Palace is nowadays used only for occasional ceremonial purposes and is no longer the royal residence. The present King Bhumibol (Rama IX) lives in Chitralada Palace (also closed to tourists), which is located not too far away in Bangkok's Dusit district. Though the interior of most of the buildings remain closed to the public Highlights of it are: - Boromabiman Hall, built by King Rama VI and every king since has lived here at some time. - Amarinda Hall, the original residence of King Rama I and the Hall of Justice. Nowadays it's impressive interior is used for ceremonial occasions and coronations. It contains the antique throne, used before the Western style one presently in use. - Grand Palace Hall / Chakri Maha Prasat. Visitors are allowed inside the spacious European style reception room. This building has not been used for royal residence since the mysterious death of King Rama VIII (the older brother of the current King), found shot dead in his room in 1946. The reverence for the monarchy in Thailand means that, even today, this remains a completely taboo subject to talk publicly about in Thailand. - The impressive Dusit Hall, rated as perhaps the finest architectural building in this style. - The Museum, which has information on the restoration of the Grand Palace, scale models of the Wat and Palace and numerous Buddha images. Labels are in Thai only, but there are free English tours available frequently. Entrance is 50Baht. As Wat Phra Kaew is Thailand's most important temple, you are expected to dress appropriately or risk being turned away. Signs put up around the entrance show you are not permitted to enter wearing shorts, sleeveless shirts, singlets or any form of open ended shoes. Sarongs and long trousers are usually available for loan should you forget.

 

 

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